Returning Home to Boracay Island

March 20, 2025

On an island where the days end in fiery colors, I chose to build my life.

The sky was flooded with pinks and reds as the sun sank into the horizon. Waves of bats crossed the sky, and flying fish danced in the distance. This was how Boracay was when I left it in 2005 for the city life. The island had felt small and suffocating. But life has a way of pulling you back to places you thought you had outgrown.

Living in Manila, I quickly became intoxicated with its fast-paced lifestyle. I saw many possibilities for my future there, but the pandemic had other plans for everyone. In 2020, I found myself back on the island, but this time, I saw it through a new lens.

The honking chaos of Manila was replaced by the rhythm of waves meeting the shore. But while I found myself on the same white sand and turquoise waters, everything else had changed. Boracay has transformed to become somewhat of a city itself, bustling with activity and life. Now, it provides for thousands of households, creating memories for over a million tourists annually. People used to knock on residents’ houses, looking for a place to stay because all the resorts were fully booked. Now, it is common to book hotels with hundreds of rooms. Restaurants were once scarce now, good food and fast food chains are easily accessible. Back then, there was only the beach to entertain the tourists. Now, the streets are lined with guides offering a plethora of activities. It is the island living with the convenience of a Metropolis.

Because of this, some people say Boracay is but a sliver of what it used to be, and in many ways, they’re right. I miss the days when you could watch the sunset without a line of people taking photos for Instagram blocking your view. When there were more coconut trees and beaches were more accessible. Some days, you really feel the stress of the multitude of tourists, the high utility bills, and the cost of goods — the harsh realities of living in a top tourist destination.

Yet, beneath the crowds and rising costs, the island culture can still be found tucked in its corners. Living in Boracay is still a beautiful experience. After years of urban living, I had forgotten how slow time could move here.

Some days feel like a dream — beginning with a jog up Mount Luho, where native birds and a breathtaking view greet me, followed by a trip to my favorite local coffee shop, Kalmado Cafe, a swim to watch the sunset, and ending with a dinner under the stars. One of the island’s greatest charms is the freedom to swim anytime, anywhere, or simply relax and listen to the waves along its long white beach. After a tiring day, sinking your feet in the sand, with the water gently lapping at your ankles, grounds you — reminding you that you do not have to be anywhere but here.

Despite its fame, it is still a small island where everyone knows everyone. There is a general sense of community, and people go out of their way to help one another. Some people say that living here makes you ageless, referring to it as “Neverland”; you can be friends with anyone of any age or background. Foreigners and locals mingle no matter the language. People care less about their looks and social status. There is less chasing of luxuries when you have all the richness of one of the best beaches in the world right at your doorstep.

Many people in Boracay run their own businesses, but instead of cutthroat rivalry, there is only a sense of healthy competition. You will find it common for restaurant and hotel owners to promote other establishments. We support one another. When one of us thrives, we all thrive. This sense of camaraderie extends beyond business. In its sports, like dragon boat, ultimate frisbee, scuba diving, and kiteboarding, to name a few, you will find that, whether you are a local or just passing by, you will be welcome to join any of these vibrant communities, where you can make connections that will last a lifetime.

But as much as we would love to escape into our tropical paradise, reality hits when you stay for more than the average of 2 nights and 3 days. Living in Boracay poses one more unique challenge — the race to preserve it. Over the years, I’ve listened to news headlines of the island as I watched its nature evolve. Development sped up faster than we could handle, outpacing the island’s capacity to sustain it. Band-aid solutions became the norm, and now we are stumbling, trying to retrace our steps. Sustainable tourism is catching on as more establishments adopt rules like no single-use plastic, but will it be enough?

We may no longer return to what it was in the 80s: a picture-perfect, untouched paradise — but all is not lost. The streets are alive with laughter and wonder as the sky takes on another new color. And every now and then, a flying fox bat grazes the sky, a turtle nests along the front beach, and a little girl stumbles upon a starfish, beginning her love for the ocean. There are some things still worth saving.

Living in Boracay is both a privilege and a responsibility — to cherish its beauty today and protect it for generations to come. ❜

Story by Wynken Gelito
Photography by Gelito and Sanka team
Gelito's portrait by Louisse Carreon